MY SKIN CYCLING ROUTINE

We exfoliate, we use retinoid, we take care of our skin barrier, but still no progress?

Well, thanks to dermatologist Whitney Bowe, MD, now there’s SKIN CYCLING. Looking at these two days actives and two days resting kind of thing, then I realize my skincare routine sin. I use gentle peel toner every morning, and that is not right! Yes, even it is a gentle one like PHA. No wonder I felt my skin was not at its’ best condition, foundation won’t stick and my pores look bigger than ever with occasional acne on my forehead (which never happened before). 

So I started my Skin Cycling Routine, and these are all the products that I’m currently using for that four nights cycle. Yes, this method is for night time only. 

Night 1: Exfoliant

After I double cleanse, because I use makeup almost every day now, I pat dry my skin and go straight to chemical exfoliant. From my own experience, BHA works better on my skin, so I’m using the 2% one. But if your skin can tolerate other actives like AHA, you can continue using that. Top that off with (heavier) moisturizer, just to make sure our skin is protected. 

Revox B77 Just Salicylic Acid 2% & Cerave Moisturizing Cream (all safe for Fungal Acne)

Night 2: Retinoid

If you already using prescription strength Retinoid, you might want to continue using it. But if not, use a gentle one, an OTC kind. Same rule applies: double cleanse, pat dry (real dry!), apply retinoid then moisturizer. 

Kiehl’s Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum & Cerave Moisturizing Cream

Night 3: Recover

This is the step that we all have to be careful and read the ingredients on our skincare products. Make sure all of them are not containing any active ingredients. Double cleanse, use gentle cleanser, apply hydrating serum while skin still damp and moisturizer. 

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 Ultra Repair Serum & La Roche-Posay Toleriane Sensitive Fluide (all safe for Fungal Acne)

Night 4: Recover (again)

Same rule applies: double cleanse, gentle cleanser, hydrating serum and moisturizer. 

Vichy Mineral 89 & La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5

How about morning routine when doing this skin cycling?

Pretty simple, I must say. Cleanse with gentle cleanser, anti-oxidant serum (my skin can only tolerate THD ascorbate at this point), light moisturizer (because we are still using mask due to pandemic here in Indonesia) and SPF. 

Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Power Serum, La Roche-Posay Toleriane Sensitive Fluide & Lancôme UV Expert Youth Shield Aqua Gel SPF50 PA++++

Like most skincare routine, do not expect miracles happened on the fourth nights. Look at it to accomplished long-term skin goals, not a quick fix. Good luck!

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

HOW TO KEEP MY FUNGAL-ACNE PRONE SKIN WELL HYDRATED

This post was inspired by Olena Beley’s 3-step moisture method.

Let me explain my current #stayathome battle: clogged pores especially on chin and left cheek, less hormonal acne, and no fungal-acne attack.

For your information, I still try my best to stay away from non-safe for fungal acne skincare products, just because I know that yeast are still inside our lovely skin, waiting for the right time to strike again. So do acne bacteria. But the one that constantly evaporating from our skin is water. They call it TEWL, Transepidermal Water Loss. Just drinking water might not help for this situation. We all need moisturizer for our skin, not to put moisture into them, but to prevent them from evaporating moisture quickly. And Olena said, “Hydrated Skin is less prone to clogging”.

While I still do my other skincare routine, I inserted her 3-step moisture method. It is Water, Humectant, and Emollient. I really hope that if my skin is hydrated enough, maybe my clogged pores problem would be solved for good. Let see, while I will update you guys in a month time.

Here’s how I do it twice daily now (I literally just started, so mind me):

  • Start with water, because we shall never use moisturizer on a clean, dry skin. Instead of plain tap water (which I’m afraid our local water contains lots of unwanted chemicals), I prefer to wet my face after cleansing with Hydrating Toner. I use Abill First Starting Toner (which contains just 4 ingredients and totally feels like good water) that I pour inside a mist bottle, to make it spread nicely rather than just splashing. Making sure skin is only damp not dripping wet.
  • While still damp, apply humectant. Olena recommended Hyaluronic Acid or Sodium Hyaluronate (its’ salt). I use two pumps of Vichy Mineral 89, which contains Sodium Hyaluronate instead of plain HA (later on this matter, as I just found out that some people are reactive to HA).
  • Then quickly apply a pea sized only of emollients to seal the deal. Olena recommended ingredients like Capric Triglycerides or Squalane. Mine is Eau Thermale Avène Tolérance Extreme Emulsion, which contains those two (Capric and Squalane, how convenient).

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

ACTIVES FOR FUNGAL ACNE

Wait, WTH is active? It is the ingredient in a product that addresses our skin concern. It has been proven in a lab by research to change our skin in each of its’ own way.

Check the ingredients’ list on your skincare products, and you might found familiar actives such as Vitamins (A, C & E are the most common ones), Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, AHA, BHA, and Benzoyl Peroxide.

Based on my experience, I’d probably recommend not to use any actives if your fungal acne is still flaring up. The simpler your skincare routine is the better. But, if you decided to add one to your regimen, based on my own personal experiences, I’d recommend these:

MY GO-TO GLYCOLIC ACID

EXFOLIATING ACIDS
Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid & Salicylic Acid. Lactic comes from lactobacillus which you might suddenly think of yoghurt. Well, this specific active might help to control the production of the yeast. Glycolic is a type of AHA (same like Lactic) that’s derived from sugar cane. Salicylic Acid is a BHA, known for reducing acne & keeping pores clear. You have to try which one is the best for your skin, though.

MY GO-TO HYALURONIC ACID

HYALURONIC ACID
Also known as hyaluronan, it’s actually a substance that can also be found in our body and naturally produced by our body. It helps to hold water and keep our skin hydrated and plump.

MY COLLECTION OF NIACINAMIDE

NIACINAMIDE
It is a water soluble derivative of vitamin B3, that help to visibly minimize enlarge pores, improve uneven skin tone and strengthen a weakened surface.

TIPS:

  • The downside of using active ingredients is the risk of potential adverse reactions, so it’s recommended to start with lowest concentration levels of actives.
  • Even though some actives are usually compatible with others, like Niacinamide with AHA, BHA or Vitamin C, better to go solo. Yes, use one active at a time due to FA attack.
  • Stick to the rules on when to apply each of them (day or night or twice in a day), do not go overboard.

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA