THE JOURNEY OF ‘TRETINOIN NEWBIE’

Disclaimer: I’m not a dermatologist. I’m just happy to share my experiences and if I can help others achieving clearer and healthier skin, I might get a good skin karma in return.

In this post I’ll share the progress pics and the concoction of my so called ‘first client’. Just a glimpse of the client’s data: early 20’s, oily skin, cystic acne and blackheads (mostly on forehead and cheeks), definitely a Tretinoin Newbie. 

WARNING: disturbing skin pictures ahead.

It was not easy to assure the client to use Retinol, because of the ‘Retinol Uglies’ that might happened in the first 4-8 weeks. Mine took 8 weeks to fully recovered, while my client already showed improvements (no more cystic acne) on 4 weeks time. Yes, it might vary to each person.

FYI, as an amateur skin coach, I worked on the my first clients’ skincare routine, and adding new products to be used based on my experiences with my own acne’s issues.

The Retinol Myth is true: YOUR SKIN WILL GET WORSE BEFORE IT GETS BETTER.

Some important notes:

  • You need to be more patient and understanding when it comes to using Retinol (Tretinoin or Adapalene) for the first time. 
  • Start with the smallest concentration of Retinol in cream form to reduce irritation and minimize ‘Retinol Uglies’. Using a pea-sized amount, any other day at night time.
  • Progress won’t happen overnight, but trust me, you will feel incredible when you see and feel the results.
  • Stick to the same routine and products for the ‘Retinol Uglies’ period. 
  • Whenever the skin feel sore and uncomfortable, I recommend to use Thermal Water Spray generously and wait to dry by itself (do not pat).

I was thinking to do this skin coach thing professionally, if I succeeded with my ‘first client’. I’ll update you next month when my first client hits 8 weeks.

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

MY ADAPALENE JOURNEY: SURVIVING RETINOL UGLIES

Whatever you’ve experienced during Adapalene’s treatment: DON’T QUIT & NEVER STOP.

Scrolling through my posts in this blog, I realized I missed to update my Adapalene Journey. So I thought, I just compile them plus giving you an update on my skin condition these days. If you haven’t read about my first encounter with Adapalene, read here.

My last update in this blog was on week 8, which looked pretty good already. But I did update on my Instagram Stories, so you might want to check the highlights here

So they said that Retinol Uglies aka purging due to Retinol will last for approximately 6 weeks, but I saw improvement on week 8. I guess my skin had a lot of closed comedones aka clogged pores, that’s why I presumed it took longer for my skin. Sharing you weeks after week 8, so you might have a greater glimpse of the purging situation.

WEEK 9: NO MORE ANGRY ZITS
WEEK 10: GETTING CLEARER, JUST HAVE TO DEAL WITH POST ACNE MARKS
PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE WHEN IT COMES TO RETINOL UGLIES
OCCASIONAL ZITS MIGHT APPEAR, IT’S NORMAL
ME AT MY MOST HAPPIEST, PLEASE NOTE THAT THE PURGING PERIOD MAY VARY
NEED CAUTER FOR THOSE PERMANENT OIL BUMPS

Then one day, on June 2021 I stopped using Adapalene, because I had botox treatment (click here). Yes, after Botox you have to stop any exfoliation for 14 days. That was the beginning of another acne hell. 

Here comes the one million dollar question: Did I re-purge on the second time around after a brief break from Adapalene? Yes, but I believe they were calmer than the first time.

Obviously, I didn’t last for 14 days exfo fasting, on day 10 I decided to start using Adapalene again. After some research, I found out that we shouldn’t stop using Adapalene even though our skin got clearer. IT IS A FOREVER THING! Thankfully, it’s safe to use for a long run. 

SKIN UPDATE ON AUG 5, 2021

Lessons learned: DON’T STOP using Adapalene even though you already satisfied on the result. And please note that I also have other products in my skincare routine to help achieve my latest skin condition.

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

5 MOST FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT RETINOL

Got a few DM on my Instagram about Retinol, so I guess I’ll answer them here while also giving you update on my skin condition.

Disclaimer: I’m not a dermatologist, so these are totally based on my own personal experience. 

WHEN I STARTED IN AUGUST 2020, AND CLEARED UP IN OCTOBER 2020

Q: If I successfully cleared up acne after using Retinol, shall I continue using it or stop?
A: Based on my own experience, I tried to reduce the usage to once every night. So on non-Retinol night, I’ll use other actives serums like AHA or BHA (depends on my skin’s condition).

MY SKIN CONDITION (FEBRUARY 2021)

Q: Will the acne be back even after you manage to clear them out using Retinol?
A: As long as I’m alive, I guess I’d still have acne hanging around. My mom used to tell me that after I passed my teenage years, my acne would clear up by themselves. Well, they didn’t. Hormonal acne on chin area are the worst for me, so they’d pop out uninvited, no matter how clean I cleansed or how diligent I am with my routine.

Q: What’s the correct order to apply Retinol on one’s skincare routine?
A: First thing first, use it at your night time skincare routine. Mine would be: double cleanse, hydrating toner, Niacinamide serum (just because it works well with Retinol), moisturiser then Retinol. If you’ve been following me, you’d probably know that I use two types of Retinol, Adapalene as base and Retinoic Acid as spot treatment. Please don’t apply them on their own, at least you can do is to mix with your moisturiser after cleansing. 

Q: How about the skincare routine for morning, after using Retinol?
A: Best that you can do is to treat your skin gently in the morning. Cleanse with gentle cleanser, use hydrating toner, moisturiser and never forget your sunscreen (even if you are not out and about like me). 

Q: What type of Retinol are you using now?
A: Evalen Adapalene Cream 0.1% and Vitacid 0.05% Retinoic Acid Cream. Adapalene went first for the whole face, then Retinoic Acid as spot treatment (on acne and acne marks). Both are local products, so they’re affordable. 

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

ADAPALENE, RETINOL, RETINOIC ACID: WHAT I’VE LEARNED

What are their differences and which one to choose according to your skin problems?

My first introduction to this Vitamin A game, was Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream.

Contains 1.0% Retinol, I was worried when I first applied it. Purging is like a nightmare, and I don’t think I can deal with it (at that time before pandemic). Turned out, I didn’t purge at all using this cream. I applied twice a week and it did bring slight changes to my skin. It made my skin smoother with less oil plugs and it did deflate acne. I kept going using this for almost a year, until I realized that my hormonal acne and whiteheads on chin area kept on appearing when I used this oil-based cream.

That’s when I decide to step up my game to Adapalene right on this pandemic moment. As I’m also in a saving mode, I was glad to find Evalen Krim, a local brand from Indonesia. It’s super affordable compared to an imported brand, and yes, I was surprised by the great result (so far). Currently I’m still on my Adapalene journey (read here for the early stages), but I can already see drastic change on my skin. Adapalene seems to push every closed comedones I have out to the surface. Scary at first, it was like getting a bad facial. But I learned throughout the process, they showed up fast but they will be gone fast too. And eventually, they all will get better in 12 weeks (max). So, cross my fingers and I’ll update on separate blog post.

Then, I found a YouTuber applied Retinoic Acid on top of her Adapalene in her night time routine. I was like, what? Double the A’s, really? But turned out, it worked for her and I certainly wouldn’t mind to jump into the same wagon while #stayathome all the time. So, now I also apply Vitacid 0,05% Retinoic Acid Cream as a spot treatment on top of Adapalene.

WHAT I’VE LEARNED:

  • It’s true when they said that Retinol tends to have fewer side effects than Retinoic Acid. It’s gentler, so if you just started in this Retinol game, start with Retinol first then you can upgrade if your skin can tolerate.
  • Both of Retinol and Retinoic Acid are vitamin A (under the same RETINOID umbrella), but Retinol contains a lower concentration of the active Retinoic Acid ingredient. Compared to Retinoic Acid, Retinol is about 20 times less potent. So if you feel (like me) Retinol worked too slow, maybe it’s time to fasten up. But don’t just take it from me, speak with your dermatologist first.
  • I believe Retinol is more ‘cosmetic’, while Retinoic Acid is more prescription strength that goes deeply into the skin to stimulate collagen production & increase cell turnover.
  • Adapalene is a synthetic Retinoid and it’s supposedly better tolerated than Retinoic Acid. From my experience so far, it normalized both of my skin struggles: keratinization and microcomedone formation.Everyone might experience different side effects, especially during the first few days of treatment. Just be patient, they are not magic in a tube.Always sandwich with a gentle cleanser and three step moisture method (water, humectant, emollient). I guess I survived not having super bad ‘retinization’ (redness, dryness, and flaking caused by Retinoid), because of this method.