SIMPLE YET EFFECTIVE SKINCARE LAYERING

Some of you might asked, “Do I need 10 steps?” Girl, it’s so 2017!

Please do not be intimidated by contents out there with so many layering steps, if you do not have the time nor the budget to do so. Knowing your skin is the first best thing, then you can accommodate based on that.

My routine might not be the same as others and I don’t expect it to be. And I totally not recommend anyone to follow mine exactly. Frankly speaking, there are no such things as ideal steps. Remember, you know you best.

So, these are my steps of skincare routine:

ONE: CLEANSE

First, wipe off with Micellar Water for base makeup. Then Lip & Eye Make Up Remover. Wait till dry then move on to Cleansing Balm. Quickly emulsified the balm, rinse and wash it all away with Face Soap. At the end of the day, I felt extra clean after all of these.

TWO: HYDRATE

Never thought that I’d even consider this as the most important step in my routine. But it is, now. Hydrating Toner and Essence are my skin’s BFF.

THREE: TREAT

My skin is far from perfect, therefore exfoliating toner, serum and ampoule are still needed in my repertoire.

FOUR: MOISTURIZE

Never underestimate the power of moisturizing to seal the previous steps in. I try to stay away from cream and lotion for moisturizer, instead I opt for gel ones.

FIVE: PROTECT

Living in a city when the sun is blasting all year round, it’s impossible and sort of forbidden to skip this step in the morning.

For sure, morning and night time routine are different. Morning routine is simpler because all the cleansing hard stuffs will be happening at night to remove makeup. And night routine might require more steps, just because there’s more time to do so.

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

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FUNGAL ACNE GONE: NOW WHAT?

Dedicated to those who asked me on IG DM, “SHALL I STILL BE USING FUNGAL-ACNE SAFE PRODUCTS NOW THAT THE FUNGAL ACNE IS GONE?”

Well, first, disclaimer: I am not a dermatologist or skin expert. I’m only sharing based on my own trial & error.

Q: Shall I stay away (still) from skincare products with fungal acne trigger ingredients?

A: From my own experience, when it comes to wash-off products (only stay on skin for maximum 2 minutes), I’d go for non-safe fungal acne products.

Q: What kind of wash-off products are you talking about?

A: First cleansers are your best bet. Cleansing balm, Micellar Water, Lip & Eye Makeup Remover and/or Face Wash.

All of these are not safe for fungal acne, but didn’t trigger ones as long as used correctly

Q: How about other products?

A: Personally, I will stick to fungal-acne safe products for stay on skincare products (just to be safe), like toner, essence, serum, ampoule, moisturizer, and even for SPF. But if you are bored or simply just want to try other products, maybe you can try non-safe for fungal acne SPF, because it’s the last layer on skin and won’t absorb anyway.

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

COMPARISON REVIEW: BANILA CO CLEAN IT ZERO & HEIMISH ALL CLEAN BALM

Haven’t found one cleansing balm that’s safe for fungal acne. And these two are also not safe, but at least they didn’t trigger my fungal acne. Usually, I use cleansing balm after my first cleanser, which is Bioderma Sensibio H2O. Then, quickly rinse off the balm residue and continue with face soap (currently using Drunk Elephant Pekee Bar).

I received Banila Co Clean It Zero as a PR gift, and this is the first time I’ve ever tried a cleansing balm as my first cleanse.

Heimish is the second balm I’ve purchased by myself. I’ve noticed that most cleansing balm (including these two) used Ethylhexyl Palmitate as their number one ingredient (which unfortunately known as fungal acne trigger). But as I mentioned previously, they both didn’t trigger mine. And I believe they cleansed perfectly, I rarely got cystic acne on my chin anymore after I triple cleanse with this.

SIMILARITIES

  • Both provided spatulas and lids.
  • They both turns into oil texture on dry skin, then emulsified into milk when rinse off with water.
  • Melt makeup easily, including waterproof mascara and eyeliner. Unfortunately they both caused blurry eyes.

DIFFERENCES

  • Heimish contains essential oils like Tea Tree Leaf, Lavender and Eucalyptus Leaf Oil. While Banila Co. didn’t use any.
  • Because Heimish used essential oils, it comes with visible scents (I smell tea tree and lavender the most). While Banila Co. have a slightly softer (like soap) scent.
  • Heimish has 33 ingredients on the list, while Banila Co only has 20.
  • Heimish is more solid and balmy then Banila Co. which have sorbet-like texture and more delightful to pick up.
  • Heimish has thicker oil when melted, while Banila Co. is more lighter.
  • The Jar. I love how Heimish came up with flip-top lid which is very practical, compares to Banila Co. twist-top lid.
  • The Lid. Heimish is more sturdy compares to the Banila Co. ones which is very filmsy and hard to pick up when you are in a hurry.
  • Heimish (IDR 190K for 120ml) is cheaper and contains more than Banila Co (IDR 232K for 100ml).

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

SENSITIVE SKIN OR WEAK SKIN BARRIER?

So I’m sure we’ve all heard about both. But seriously, are they the same problem? Or are they like…connected?

Well, I did some research to write about this. First of all, I do believe I have sensitive skin, just because it’s easily irritated. So, if you are easily irritated, either by environmental things like sun or cold, and by topical products, you might call it sensitive skin.

Then, I did some more digging on the net. Turned out, our skin sensitivity actually has to do with the fatty outer layer of our skin. This fatty outer layer often called the lipid (fat) barrier with two functions: keeping the water inside and protect the skin from damaging factors like UV rays, wind, heat and harsh chemicals. Unfortunately for those who have sensitive skin, this barrier is usually weaker, thinner and more easily damaged. Therefore, thin lipid barrier can cause a variety of dermatological issues like acne and inflammation.

So, what to do now, you might ask?

  • First, stay away from harsh products and try not to overdo anything.
  • Wash your face strictly twice a day with gentle cleanser.
  • Do not over exfoliate, try to do it once or twice a week (max).
  • Use fewer products on your skincare routine. Trust me, sometime less is definitely more.
  • Stay away from alcohol (from the ingredients list), just because it might over-dried the top layer of the skin.

PRODUCTS TO TRY:

APIEU MADECASSOSIDE AMPOULE

I love this! Like whenever I over exfoliate or my skin feels uncomfortable, this will instantly calm down the redness and the bumps. Under-rated product that’s actually very damn good. Totally recommended!

2SOL FACIAL RECOVERY BOOSTER

Panthenol (Vitamin B5) and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) inside this will help improve the barrier function. It has 10% of each, so it will help prevent moisture loss, reduce dryness and strengthen skin barrier at once.

HEIMISH ALL CLEAN GREEN FOAM

Gentle cleanser with low PH, formulated with centella asiatica and witch hazel, which are widely known for their skin healing and soothing properties. I just love the gel-balm texture of this cleanser, and how it didn’t leave my skin feel tight after wash.

TRILOGY CERTIFIED ORGANIC ROSEHIP OIL

Try to incorporate facial oil to your routine and you’d be surprised. This specific oil contains powerful essential fatty acids that improve skin hydration. Bonus: it also helps to reduce scars and fine lines. Personally, I mix two drops to my foundation every morning. It adds glow and prevent cracks, while keeping skin hydrated all day long.

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

COMPARISON REVIEW: 23 YEARS OLD BADECASIL & CHICA Y CHICO BETA SALIC 2.0 PLUS

Before I go further to details, they are both not safe for Fungal-Acne.

If you do have fungal acne, I recommend to use these as spot treatment only. I only use these on blackheads, small bumps, closed comedones and some milias near my eyes. That’s it. I don’t put these on my hormonal acne, because they both didn’t seem to work on one. By the way, this is the newest version of Chica Y Chico Beta Salic 2.0 Plus Baby Face Cream with very instagramable pink tube.

THE DIFFERENCES

  • Badecasil has that old feel tube, while Chica Y Chico got that modern ‘now’ vibe.
  • Badecasil has 32 ingredients, while Chica Y Chico has 35 ingredients
  • Badecasil has Broccoli extract, while Chica Y Chico has Snail Secretion Filtrate.
  • No tingling sensation with Badecasil, but there’s tingling close to stinging with Chica Y Chico at the first use only. On second day, same spots, I didn’t feel anything. But it always tingle on new spots, so be aware.

THE SIMILARITIES

  • Both are made in Korea
  • Both come in a tube 30ml packaging
  • Both contain silicone
  • Both have 24 of the same ingredients, some familiar names like Glycolic Acid, Betaine Salicylate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Jojoba Seed Oil and Allantoin (you can check the complete list on skincarisma.com).
  • Both are recommended to use at night time only
  • Both claimed to exfoliate dead skin cells and moisturize skin at once.
  • Both have the same milky white lotion texture

RESULTS:

So I’ve tried both of them each by themselves for two weeks straight in a row with no pause day, just to show you guys these results on my skin. Please note that I was also using other skincare products before applying these (as each is recommended to use as final step of PM skincare routine). 

USING BADECASIL: NO IMPROVEMENT ON SMALL BUMPS
USING CHICA Y CHICO: FLATTER/LESS VISIBLE BUMPS

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

NEW & INTERESTING NATURAL INGREDIENTS FOR SKINCARE

Frankly speaking, I am not an all-out green and natural skincare products seeker. I mean, I still believe in hard-core acids and stuffs. But, lately there are new and interesting natural ingredients on the skincare market. Thought I’d give it a shot.

HIBISCUS

Hibiscus is a beautiful flower and surprisingly has skincare benefits. It is one of the most powerful anti-aging plant actives, so it’s known as nature’s botox for its’ firming and lifting ability. This flower is also rich in antioxidants to help skin fight free radicals from pollution and UV. But please aware that hibiscus is a fragrant plant, therefore it might affect those who are sensitive to scents on your skincare product.

NONI

In Indonesia where I live, it’s not rare to drink the juice. But what do we know? Noni fruit extract is great for healing and rejuvenating skin due to its abundance of vitamins (A & C) plus antioxidants to protect against free radicals. One thing that interest me the most about one of the benefits is: Noni has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties! Whoa! It might be good for fungal-acne, no?

EGGPLANT

Again, where I live, people will eat cooked eggplants (though I don’t like it). I know it’s a healthy food, but little that I know it’s full of vitamin C. And when I did research for eggplant on the net, it contains ‘lupeol’ (some kind of substance that’s highly effective on problematic skin). It’s also antibacterial and anti-ageing. Pretty potent veggie, right?

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

IF YOU HAVE FUNGAL-ACNE, ‘BE FRIENDS’ WITH THESE INGREDIENTS

SULFUR

Known for its antifungal and antibacterial properties, you’ll easily find this ingredient in the treatment for acne and such. If you can stand its’ distinct scent, that’s great, because it does work to get rid of fungal acne.

PROPOLIS

I read in simpleskincarescience.com that there are studies that showed that propolis extract exhibits antimicrobial activity. And I love how propolis does give a glowing effect on skin.

KETOCONAZOLE

Unfortunately, this ingredient mostly came in a shampoo form. But no worries, you can use this shampoo as a 5 minutes wash-off face mask. Compared to other antifungals, like Zinc Pyrithione, Ketoconazole is the champ.

TEA TREE OIL

Tea tree oil has strong antimicrobial properties against Malassezia aka fungal acne. Personally, I tried to stay away from the oil per se, just because I found it too thick and might irritate my sensitive skin. So I chose product that actually contains one (it’s diluted with other ingredients).

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

WHAT TO DO IF YOUR HG PRODUCT STOPS WORKING?

ALTERNATE, people.

Is it just me? Or lots of you experienced the same thing as me? My skin easily got immune, usually after finishing two of the same skincare product. Weird but true.

That’s why I found a way to alternate between products, just to make sure their effectiveness on my fungal-acne prone skin. So, after finishing one product, I usually move to another brand with similar ingredients and purposes. Then, I’d move back to the old one.

EXFOLIATING TONER

HADA LABO MILD PEELING LOTION & SOME BY MI AHA BHA PHA 30 DAYS MIRACLE TONER

The similarities: both are fungal acne safe and contain water plus butylene glycol.

The difference: Hada Labo only has 7 ingredients, while Somebymi has 22.

Thoughts: they are both mild enough to use everyday as exfoliating toner, but I try to use it every other day to avoid over exfoliating. And usually I just use exfoliating toner at night time.

BOOSTER

PAULA’S CHOICE 10% NIACINAMIDE BOOSTER & 2SOL FACIAL RECOVERY BOOSTER

The similarities: both are fungal acne safe and contain niacinamide, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate and allantoin.

The difference: 2Sol only has 19 ingredients, while Paula’s Choice has 24.

Thoughts: They both will be better if mixed with ampoule or moisturizer, as they might be sticky if stand alone. Both have same clear watery texture.

ESSENCE

COSRX ADVANCED SNAIL 96 MUCIN POWER ESSENCE & BENTON SNAIL BEE HIGH CONTENT ESSENCE

The similarities: both contain snail secretion filtrate, panthenol, betaine, arginine, butylene glycol and allantoin

The differences: Cosrx only has 12 ingredients, while Benton has 25. Corsx is safe for fungal acne, while Benton (unfortunately) has polysorbate 20 (known as one of fungal acne trigger) in their ingredients list.

Thoughts: Cosrx is more gloopy (literally like snail mucin), while Benton is less gloopy. Unfortunately Benton reformulated this and added Polysorbate 20 in their new formula, so it might not be safe for fungal acne.

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

CLEAN BEAUTY FOR FUNGAL ACNE

I’m sure a lot of you already familiar with the term of “Clean Beauty”.

Lately I’ve become more aware of this, especially after my first strike of fungal-acne back in April 2018. After that 1st attack, I read the ingredients label on the back like I’ve never been before. And luckily, now we’re blessed with skincare ingredients search engine that can identify the safety of most products that we use every day for our skin.

Now it’s harder for companies to market and brainwash us with their products, because (thanks to the awesome technologies) we can find out by ourselves. For certain, I can’t be fooled by the word “natural” or “organic” or “pure” anymore.

After some research online, the terms “Clean Beauty” refers to lots of definition, but I guess I can simplify it to non-toxic. Non-toxic products that are made without ingredients linked to harmful health effects (from simple and short term ones like skin irritation, to scary and long term ones like cancer). If you search online, you will find a lot of harmful ingredients with familiar names like Propylene Glycol which actually is an antifreeze, or Sodium Hydroxide which is used as a drain cleaner. Yes, nasty chemicals indeed. So, it’s not about eco-conscious anymore, but more to health-conscious.

I’m trying my best to join this “Clean Beauty” route. Having fungal-acne prone skin, I do have to check every single time I want to purchase skincare product. Thanks to simpleskincarescience.com, I know I have to stay away from Ester (alcohol and fatty acid) and its’ friends like Polysorbate. So, initially I looked for harmful fungal-acne trigger ingredients, but turned out those ingredients are also harmful in any other ways. Lucky us, the industry (especially personal-care ones) are slowly but surely cleaning up, for more aware consumers. After the US, K-Beauty is also trying to clean up to serve the new generation of more aware consumers.

My favorite Clean Beauty products for Fungal Acne are:

I’M FROM MUGWORT ESSENCE

It consists only one ingredient: 100% of Artemisia Princeps Extract (aka Mugwort). It’s known for its’ soothing and cleansing effect. Great for sensitive skin!

Drunk Elephant Pekee Bar and T.L.C Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

There won’t be any Essential Oils, Drying Alcohols, Silicones, Chemical Screens, Fragrance/Dyes and SLS in Drunk Elephant’s products. So yes, I love Drunk Elephant, especially these two.

UNBOUND LAB HIBISCUS SMOOTHER PAD

Instead of using AHA, this pad is using 88% Hibiscus (known as Nature’s Botox for its’ firming ability and natural source of AHA). So, it delivers the same benefits as chemical AHA without being harsh. I just love this new Clean Beauty brand from Korea. Even the packaging looks so clean!

PYUNKANG YUL ESSENCE TONER

Most of their products contain less than 10 ingredients. Very minimalistic, just like their packaging. This is one of their star product, which contains 91.3% of milk vetch root, a super ingredient in Korean and traditional Chinese medicine, full of skin-beneficial betaine and minerals. It’s fragrance free, dye free and irritant free.

SKIN1004 MADAGASCAR CENTELLA ASIATICA 100 AMPOULE

Main and only ingredient: Centella Asiatica Extract. It’s really soothing for sensitive skin and very affordable for a big bottle of ampoule.

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA

EUROPEAN DRUG-STORE SKINCARE PRODUCTS FOR FUNGAL-ACNE PRONE SKIN

Do I have other products than K-Beauty skincare? Of course, dearest. I do have a few of European drugstore brands in my collection. Disclaimer: unfortunately, most of them were purchased when I travelled abroad, because they don’t carry them where I live (Jakarta, Indonesia). Boohoo!!

EAU THERMALE AVÈNE or simply called Avène.

Thermal Spring Water

I guess every girl in this world must have this in their vanity. I use this before first toner, right after cleansing. Why? Because I have hard water in my home, so I need to neutralize my skin before everything else. It has ideal calcium/magnesium ratio to help improve skin texture. And I love the cooling & calming sensation on every spray it made. Super love!

3 in 1 Make-Up Remover

This is like a cleansing milk, non-rinse ones. Its’ milky texture will turn into fluid when rubbed. Please note that this has fragrance (but claimed to be tolerated by sensitive skin). It removed base makeup well, but not recommended to use to remove eye makeup.

Vichy Laboratories Mineral 89

I am sold by one of their claim that it acts as a protective shield against pollution. And after more research, I found out that this only has 11 ingredients (which is great for sensitive skin), with the highest concentration of their Thermal Mineralizing Water plus Hyaluronic Acid. Currently, I use this as daily moisturizer, by the way.

URIAGE EAU THERMALE or simply called Uriage

Creme Lavante

Another Thermal Water based product in my collection, this is a fragranced cleansing cream. Even though it’s fragranced, it’s safe for sensitive skin (proven by yours truly). Usually I use this in the morning after my acid night (which is only twice a week now). Mind you, this is soap-free and contains 1/3 nourishing milk. It won’t dry out skin but in the same time it didn’t leave any filmy residue after cleansing.

Hyseac SPF50+ Fluid

It’s specifically tailored for combination to oily skin, so yes on this point. It contains licorice extract which known for its’ ability to reduce excess sebum and prevent new blemishes. Another yes. It didn’t leave my skin look shiny or white or greyish or patchy.

Eucerin Ultra Sensitive Soothing Care

This is actually a day and night moisturizer, but I use this as a daily moisturizer for AM only. It’s preservative-free, paraben-free, paraffin-free, fragrance-free, alcohol-free, colorant-free and emulsifier-free. Since I’ve experienced redness here and there, especially after that over-exfoliating period, this really help to calm them down. It’s very light and contains SymSitive, their patented ingredient specially developed for hypersensitive skin. I do recommend this to strengthen skin barrier.

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50T

This specific type (they do have lots of type) of acid toner has been developed to suit all skin types from sensitive to dehydrated skin. I was too excited to try this hype acid toner, I applied this every night. Yes, I ended up having over-exfoliated skin. So, I do recommend to use this only once or twice a week (diluted on a cotton pad moistened with water). I don’t mind the vinegar-like smell, it reminds me of Apple Cider Vinegar.

LA ROCHE-POSAY

Thermal Spring Water

What is it with me and Thermal Water? Well, this is another favorite Thermal Water of mine. Naturally rich in selenium, well known as a powerful antioxidant, this face mist not only refreshes but also tones and rebalance skin. That’s why on my bad skin days, I will use this as a face toner to replace my regular toner.

Serozinc Face Mist

To beat the shine with only mist? Yup, this will do. This is actually a mattifying face mist, specially made for oily skin people. As the name applied, it does contain zinc sulfate to target signs of oily skin. No worries, it’s also clear like ordinary water mist, and I believe this is also a great toner if you’re sensitive to anything.

Bioderma Sensibio H2O

Need I say more? Tried many of cleansing water for makeup, from another brands, another countries, but keep on coming back to this. Even though this doesn’t dissolve eye makeup, but a great base makeup remover.

PHOTOS: SHINTA ROSVITA